A Scandi-inspired croissant-like pastry from Flour Station
“Some say it’s a bit bitter. Some say it’s a bit soapy. It’s not—it’s delicious,” says Jasmine simply. Made fresh that morning in Flour Station’s north London bakery, it is at first surprisingly difficult for her to define quite what the bun in question actually is.
“It’s a croissant pastry, folded with cardamom—so like an almond croissant but with cardamom—but in a different shape. So actually, it’s more like a cinnamon bun, but with croissant pastry and cardamom instead of cinnamon…” She muses, before finally concluding, “you know what? It’s my favourite.”
Her confusion is understandable, because this elusive pastry is in fact all of those things—yet, like all the best pastries, it is something more. Placed in the strong, dexterous hands of Flour Station’s bakers, the sum of its parts—100 per cent butter, extra fine Label Rouge French flour, strong, heady cardamom—come to less than the whole.
Though the spice is Indian, cardamom buns are strongly associated with Scandinavian countries, where the bun (usually a larger, more dense and doughy version of this feathery morsel) and a rich coffee lends a hint of heat to the dark, icy mornings for which they are also renowned.
“It goes brilliantly with coffee,” Jasmine confirms, and we’ll second her. The strong, citrusy overtones and floral base notes of both coffee and cardamom marry beautifully, while the butter—a rich, salty-sweet oozing—adds an undercurrent of smooth indulgence. Add this and a Monmouth to your Friday morning routine, and you’ll weather any weather out.