Whorls of sticky cinnamon brioche from Bread Ahead
“They are a real ‘thing’ aren’t they. The thing of the moment,” Matt Jones of Bread Ahead enthuses—and no, he’s not talking doughnuts. Not this time, anyway. “Don’t get me wrong, I do love our doughnuts, but we do bake a lot more than that.”
Cinnamon buns, the burnished, billowing whorls of which you may have seen squatting on the stall in the last month or so are a classic example of Bread Ahead’s ability to look to their customers for inspiration, as much as they do old family recipes.
“We always try to listen to what people are asking for,” says Matt, “and they kept saying cinnamon buns.” Of course, our prevailing obsession with all things Scandinavian has made these the buns du jour for some time. But there’s far more to this sticky synthesis of sugar and spice than Nordic cool.
There’s the rich, buttery brioche dough, rolled out and dusted liberally with sugar and cinnamon before being rolled up into a snail shell. “It’s a fiddly job,” says Matt, “but the boys have got it down.” There’s the syrup: more cinnamon and sugar, caramelised into gooeyness and drizzled across the dough’s fat, golden folds.
Then, there’s the scent: warm, rich and festive, rolling out across the Market from half past eight, when the first of the freshly baked buns arrive through to the moment they sell out—a moment which, thanks to their “phenomenal popularity” as a breakfast treat, comes all too quickly.
Our advice? Get your Monmouth, and get yourself over there tout suite.