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Cowboy cookies

Categories: Friday feeling

Chewy, gooey biscuits chock-full of American goodness

America and Cinnamon Tree Bakery call them cowboy cookies—on account, the internet explains, of the fact they are hearty enough for a day in the saddle rootin’, tootin’ and shootin’. No one quite knows where the term originated, but there’s no denying their Western-ness, being a) cookies and b) chock-full of such all-American ingredients as cranberries, rough oats, chocolate chips and pecans.

Personally, we prefer their alternative name: kitchen sink cookies. Because really, that does seem like the only thing that the bakers haven’t packed into this soft-yet-chewy, robust-yet-gooey jumble sale of a biscuit that looks suspiciously worthy, but in fact has little more claim to a health bar than a chocolate brownie. “They are my favourite,” says Maximo, “there is so much going on.”

“They aren’t too healthy,” he insists, as we crunch on pecans, “there’s plenty of chocolate in there.” No sooner has he said it than a chocolate drop melts seductively in our mouths, infusing the malty mix with creamy sweetness. Shortly after, a sharp kick of cranberry comes into play.

The dancing wolf
This is a sun dance of a sweet: bright, multi-textured and endlessly entertaining. It’s a high noon snack that’s sure to keep the dancing wolf from the door—but it ain’t big enough for the two of us, so don’t expect to share.