A round-up of Borough’s best
Vacherin mont d’Or
There are only seven producers of this seasonal soft cow’s cheese, and Mons Cheesemongers’ supplier Eric Sancey-Richard is among the smallest and the best. Curds are stirred by hand, which ensures they retain their moisture, while its spruce wrapping gives the cheese a piney, verdant flavour. Drizzled with white wine and softly fried garlic and cooked for 10 minutes, this is the perfect whole baked cheese.
Sold at Neal’s Yard Dairy and named after the Welsh word for pasture, Hafod is made by Patrick Holden, chair of the Sustainable Food Trust. He’s been farming organically in Wales for more than 40 years, and the milk from his herd of Ayrshire cows produces the sort of cheddar that cries out to be married with mustard and Worcestershire sauce and grilled on toast for the most Welsh of Welsh rarebits.
This raw cow’s milk cheese, perfect for a fondue, is produced next to the ruins of Schlossberg Castle in the Emmental Valley, Switzerland. The milk comes twice a day from farmers whose herds graze within five miles of the dairy, and the wheels are matured for 18-23 months to create notes of butter, hazelnut and, faintly, caramelised onion. For a stronger fondue, says Constantine at Jumi, mix it with emmental.
A heady aroma, savoury flavour and pliant paste make this Bermondsey-born cheese from Kappacasein the perfect candidate for raclette. The milk comes from Somerset, from pasture-fed Jersey cows. The resulting cheese is washed with a special brine every three days to achieve a distinctively pink moist rind, softening the paste inside and lending it an extra level of flavour and pungency.
In The Borough Market Cookbook, Ed Smith urges us to reconsider the souffle, not as a tricksy, cheffy dish, but a showstopping vehicle for the ever-popular comté cheese. Comté works beautifully in a souffle, its nutty, caramel notes melding into the bechamel and bringing a comfortingly sweet cheesiness. Borough Cheese Company’s 18-month comté is a great melter and a crowd-pleasing option.