Borough Market favourite gets a new name and a new menu
Since arriving at Borough Market in 2016, Nadia and Nick Stokes have fulfilled their ambition of putting goat—an extremely versatile, highly sustainable and sadly under-utilised meat—firmly on the London street food map thanks to the success of their award-winning Borough Market stall, Gourmet Goat. Now, they have relocated their business to a new site just opposite their previous spot, and given it a new name: Elpiniki.
“The new name reflects where we are going as a business,” says Nadia. “It means ‘hope wins’ in Greek, and it reflects that we are hopeful about the more sustainable direction that food production is taking. Elpiniki was also my grandmother’s name, and she is the inspiration behind much of what we do here.”
Loyal followers of Gourmet Goat (of which there are many) need not panic. Elpiniki remains, in Nadia’s words, a “sustainable Cypriot kitchen”. Firm favourites from the old menu—such as the free-range kid goat kofta served in hot pillowy flat bread, and the slow-roast rose veal dished up atop a selection of seasonal salads—remain on the menu, but they have been joined by a plethora of new dishes inspired by Nadia’s Cypriot heritage, all of which put sustainability and seasonality firmly at their core.
New dishes include spinach and feta croissants and sweet tahini pie. Look out too for rare-breed pork afelia, a traditional dish for which pork is marinated in red wine and crushed coriander seeds before being roasted. “It is full of Cypriot flavours that many people here are not familiar with,” Nadia explains. Another dish rooted in her childhood is roasted aubergine with rich tomato and terebinth sauce, feta and capers, which is already proving very popular. “Terebinth is like a more earthy, less medicinal juniper,” says Nadia. “It grows wild in the mountains and I remember our clothes smelling of it after we had been out playing.” If the beautiful smells emanating from Elpiniki are anything to go by, a little of that fragrance on the clothes would be no bad thing.