Friday feeling: sausage roll

Juicy, peppery Lincolnshire pork shoulder encased in crisp pastry

Sausage roll. Even the words are compelling, conjuring up visions of sleeping pigs tucked tight in duvets and pillows of pastry. That’s before you get to the thing itself—which, in the case of that found at Mountain’s Boston Sausage, means—a juicy, peppered sausage of Lincolnshire pork, expertly seasoned and bound up with sage.

“It’s made in Boston, Lincolnshire,” explains Jamie at the stall—both the sausage, and its pastry blanket which even by Borough Market standards is superlative. Crisp yet buttery with a decent pastry to sausage ratio, it is delicately flaky on the outside and reassuringly squidgy within.

Hot off the stall
The secret, says Jamie, is the sausage meat—or rather, the fact it’s not sausage meat. “It’s 100 per cent pork shoulder, not odds and ends,” he tells us. The pigs are high welfare, free range and excellent quality. “Our sausage rolls are simple, but in a really good way.” Most people like them hot, straight off the stall, where they are baked fresh each day. “They’re best as they are, but I’ve not met an Antipodean who doesn’t like ketchup.” For his part, Jamie likes it cold at the end of a busy day at the Market, with nought but a napkin to adorn its comforting glory.