Street food, Borough Market Kitchen

For Nadia Stokes, food is a means of connecting with her Greek-Cypriot heritage—a cuisine in which simple, seasonal ingredients are cherished, and nothing is wasted. So when Nadia came to the UK and found goat dairy farms sending their billies straight to slaughter, without a thought for utilising the delicious meat, she was outraged.

Out of that outrage, with help from husband Nick, Gourmet Goat was born. Critical acclaim followed, along with numerous awards and lengthy queues. The menu has since expanded to accommodate other underappreciated meats—along with a whole host of vegetarian and omnivorous eastern Mediterranean dishes—under the banner of Elpiniki, named after Nadia’s grandmother. It means ‘hope wins’—and is as compelling a name for this esteemed trader as it is for our times.