Women of Borough Market: Thea
To mark International Women’s Day, some of Borough Market’s female traders, staff and trustees share their experiences as women in the food industry. Today, Thea Wunderer of Alpine Deli on market trading, female charcuterie lovers and the changing face of butchery
“I THINK THIS IDEA THAT CURED MEAT IS A MASCULINE FOOD IS A PERCEPTION THAT ISN’T TRUE ANYMORE”
Interview: Clare Finney
I had always thought of charcuterie as being something that men were more likely to be drawn towards, but I’m not so sure that’s the case these days. I think this idea that cured meat is a masculine food is a perception that isn’t true anymore. At Alpine Deli, there are so many female customers who love cured meat and buy it for themselves, not for their husbands or boyfriends – and I love to see that.
In fact, I think the gender balance of my customers at Borough Market is pretty even. That is also completely normal in Spain and France – and Italy, where I come from. I grew up with cured meat products. The hams, salamis and sausages I sell are all from my hometown in South Tyrol, in the far north of Italy. My dad was a farmer and had a restaurant in the village, so I’ve always been close to the food industry. One thing led to another, and in time I ended up bringing produce from back home to sell here in London.
My customers are very mixed, but the making of charcuterie does remain male-dominated. That is slowly changing, though. I find there are more and more female butchers. Just look at Wyndham House Poultry in the Market, which is mostly female, and at Ginger Pig – there are female butchers there, too. There is no reason why that shouldn’t be the case. Meat can be interesting to anyone; it is life, after all.
As for the world of being a market trader, I don’t think that’s a particularly male or female thing. There are loads of women working at Borough Market now, selling brilliant produce. I certainly wouldn’t say I’ve faced more challenges on account of being female. The job itself is tough, regardless of who you are and what you’re selling. You have to be quick and resilient to deal with different people and different situations. If something breaks, you have to know how to fix it, or find a solution to quickly replace it. It’s physically tough, setting up the stall and being on your feet all day. And let’s not forget the weather conditions: the cold, the wind and the rain.
I’ve been at Borough Market for 13 years now, and every year I’ve found myself with more customers and more regulars. Maybe it’s a me thing, maybe it’s a woman thing, I don’t know, but I see this as me doing something I’m passionate about, and I think that’s the reason I’ve been successful. I’ve put everything into it and I’m always here, so I’m a familiar face. That said, I’ve been very lucky in having a lot of support. I would not have been able to do this on my own, without the people around me. I was a girl from the Italian mountains, coming to a big city in a different country. Step by step, with plenty of encouragement, I’ve achieved something I’m proud of.
