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Friday feeling: Baltic doughnuts

Doughy, brioche-like rings enriched with cream cheese and curd

Bacon and maple syrup. Grilled cheese. Crab. Earl grey. Mojito. These days there is no limit to what can go in a doughnut. Yet what one gains by way of creamy, jammy, sweet or savoury fillings, one misses in the shape of—well, a hole. There is, by definition, no hole in a filled doughnut—and while it seems strange to want less of a good thing, there are times when we like doughnuts like we like our mints and party biscuits: hole-y.

Besides being aesthetically-pleasing, the shape of a ring provides an absence in which to appreciate the presence encircling it—be it solid gold, inflated rubber, or, in the case of Karaway Bakery’s new Baltic doughnut, a sweet brioche-like dough enriched with soft cheese and curd. “Made with a mixture of soft cheese, dough and curd, it is one of the most popular sweets in Baltic countries, especially in Lithuania where it is known as ‘spurgos’,” says Nadia, Karaway’s owner and founder.

Deep fried in oil and sprinkled with icing sugar, it can be made in a ball shape or, as Nadia has chosen, with a hole. “Kids absolutely love them,” she continues. This soft, chewy, icing sugar-dusted dough holds great appeal—for kids and adults alike. “It is delicious and moreish with a cup of tea or coffee, or on its own.”