Friday feeling: cherry ice cream

A melange of creamy goat’s milk ice cream and fresh, jammy English cherries

According to unofficial research, the Venn diagram of cherry lovers shows little, if any, overlap between those who love cherries and those who love cherry flavouring. The former live for this time of year: a juicy three-week window at the end of July and beginning of August, when cherries droop from the trees across England, to be picked by the basketful. The latter? They’re on the cherryade: that sweet fizzy concoction that has never seen a cherry, let alone shaken one’s hand.

We’ll leave that group to it. Fresh cherries, though delicious straight from a paper bag, are also a great fruit to cook with. No one who has ever tried a cherry clafoutis could deny the jammy, rich, slightly perfumed boost it gives to even the most simple of ingredients—which is why, come cherry season, Greedy Goat raids its local cherry trees to make an ice cream that “people who don’t like cherry flavoured things, really love,” says Andrew from behind the stall. It’s a customer favourite: “That might be because I recommend it so much, but it’s hugely popular. I think partly because it’s so seasonal.”

From the cherry orchards of Somerset via Greedy Goat’s goat farm (also based down there) comes an ice cream that is bursting with cherries: the deep purple fruit spreading their lip-staining juices through creamy goat’s milk ice cream, lightly flavoured with vanilla. It’s a glorious sight, particularly for those who are sensitive to lactose: goat’s milk contains less than cow’s, so Greedy Goat is a fine alternative to gelato. It’s neither ‘goaty’ nor thin, but creamy, smooth and deeply summery. Get it quick, before the cherries run out.