Bread Ahead’s fresh fruit-filled take on a much-loved classic
There’s a lot that’s been written about Bread Ahead’s filled doughnuts, and it wouldn’t be unfair to say we’ve written most of it. How could we not, when faced with what is not so much a doughnut, as an endlessly Instagrammable platonic ideal? It’s the gift that keeps on giving; the filling that keeps on oozing; a triumph of butter, eggs, flour and sugar stuffed with a smorgasbord of seasonal creations like today’s number: British-grown, Borough Market-bought and Bread Ahead-made raspberry jam.
“All our jams are made with fresh fruit,” says Matt, Bread Ahead’s founder, “and we make them in-house, with more fruit than sugar.” That’s no bid to be healthy: it’s flavour and texture these bakers are striving for, which is why “we make the jam more like a compote and leave the raspberry pips in for flavour and crunch.” Perhaps unsurprisingly, given their reputation in the patisserie world, raspberries are a doughnut’s best fruit friend. “They’re quite acidic, so they really cut through the dough’s richness,” says Matt. The combination of pillowy, sugar-dusted dough and sticky pink jam is just reminiscent enough of after-school doughnuts to be comforting, while at the same time setting a new, more intensely jammy and less throat-blockingly claggy bar.
The jam camp
“The raspberry jam doughnut has a different customer to the others,” Matt observes. “They are more traditional and come specifically for that one type of doughnut.” They’ll deviate to other flavours—blueberry, strawberry, apple, depending on the season—but they remain firmly in the jam camp. Not for them the likes of vanilla custard, honeycomb or praline: they want fruit coursing through the centre of their dough, staining its rich, fluffy inside with its juices and dribbling down their chins in sticky streams to land—if they’re careful—on a well-placed napkin. If that’s you, Bread Ahead’s where it’s at.