Luke Mackay tells us what’s in store for September’s demo residency, in which Hayden Groves will be welcoming autumn and all it means for the home cook
Summer in the Market is wonderful. Stone fruits dribble sweet juice down to your elbows. Berries of every hue find their way into summer puddings, pavlovas or just bowls of golden Neal’s Yard Dairy cream. Cooking is barely necessary. Summer is a time for pottering and assembly of ingredients—perhaps burrata draped with prosciutto and honey nectarines from Jock Stark. A light drizzle of olive oil and a twist of black pepper and you have the perfect ‘foraged’ lunch. When long, hot summer days are getting longer and hotter, the secret is to leave your oven off, dispense with bringing anything to the boil and let nature and artisan producers do all the hard work for you.
For chefs and home cooks alike, autumn is where the action is; a time for gently puttering stock pots, braises and stews. Perhaps a pie or a long slow roast. “Early autumn is a beautiful time for making the most of the natural larder,” says Hayden Groves. With game appearing, root vegetables starting to come to the fore, and wonderful shellfish from our cold northern waters, “nothing highlights that more than a wander around the Market”.
Low and slow
Each Thursday throughout the month of September, Hayden will be taking the helm in the Demo Kitchen to show us how to make the most of autumn’s offering, dishing up glorious low and slow comfort food using inspiration from his culinary training in the UK and his travels overseas.
On Thursday 5th September we’ll be looking at stews and braising, with cullen skink, boeuf bourgignon, and chicken and chicory with our own Borough Market beer. On Thursday 12th, we’re onto pies. Fish takes a starring role here with Hayden’s fisherman’s pie, followed by a classic shepherd’s pie and perhaps a rib-sticking suet pudding, rich with ox cheek and fantastic beef stock. Week three is all about roasting, starting with that French bistro classic, confit duck legs, then meltingly tender octopus and that Deep South soul food classic, pulled pork. For those of you with a sweet tooth, particularly if you were brought up in the UK, the final week of the residency is for you—puddings! Think crumble, sponge and custard, made using seasonal fruit from the Market and a great dollop of nostalgia.
With the evenings drawing in and so many fantastic ingredients in season, September is a gift for anyone who loves to cook.
Join Hayden for tips, tastings and recipes every Thursday in September in the Market Hall, 1-2:30pm