Friday feeling: pistachio creme doughnuts

A nod to St Patrick’s Day in honour of this weekend’s celebrations

This Sunday the Irish, their descendants, friends and fellow Guinness-lovers will gather together to don shamrocks, sing folk songs and toast their patron saint, St Patrick—or St Paddy’s Day, as it’s fondly dubbed. Here at Borough Market we’ll be encouraging revellers to ‘taste the greatness of Northern Ireland’ for two whole weeks, with a visit from a host of the country’s finest producers, including its first cheese collective, Indie Fude; Great Taste award-winning Millbay oysters; and Irish black butter. Plus, for this weekend only, Bread Aheadis getting in on the act with special edition St Patrick’s Day doughnuts, filled with pistachio crème.

Yep, you did read that right. Pistachio crème. In a doughnut. Even Matt Jones, Bread Ahead’s head baker and founder has to admit the Irishness is “minimal really. We just wanted to create something that was Shamrock-green.” Herbs didn’t work—no one wants a sugar bun laced with parsley—so they plumped for pistachio on account of its exceptional flavour. “It’s a bit off-piste, but it’s 2019. London is a global city,” he laughs. If Angela Hartnett can be born in Essex to an Irishman and an Italian, then rise to Italian Michelin-starred greatness in London, surely the capital’s most renowned doughnut-makers can unite the most Irish of colours and the most Italian of ingredients within the sweet, cushiony confines of Britain’s favourite sweet treat?

Bright creamy pistachios
“The whole thing about our doughnuts is that they’re a gastronomic experience,” says Matt. “They’re not particularly sweet, so you get to taste other flavours: the bright creaminess of the pistachios, the rich dough of the doughnuts, the sugar crystals.” They’re complex, diverse, well balanced, he continues—and most importantly, not so enormous you won’t be able to manage one after a pint or two of the black stuff.