Mango and cardamom kulfi

The traditional Indian frozen dessert from Gujurati Rasoi

Everything Urvesh Parvais does as chef and owner of Gujurati Rasoi is rooted in his love of good food, and his family. “I have loved kulfi since I was a child, and I have two chief executive officers who share my passion,” he says with a wry grin. “They are pretty hardball when it comes to the flavour and texture, they always give it to me straight. They just happen to be my kids!”

To describe kulfi as Indian ice cream is to do this dense, creamy dessert a disservice; made right—as is the way at Gujurati Rasoi’s brand new ‘jolly lolly’ kulfi cart, of course—it’s a world unto its own. If we were to draw a trite western comparison it’d be with a certain small milk-based lolly sold through the windows of millions of ice cream vans. Were you to take said milk and simmer and nurse it lovingly for several hours, until caramelised, nutty and dreamy, then spruce it up with only the best of ingredients, you’d have something approximating this deliciously sweet treat.

“I love approaching the process of making kulfi with my chef’s hat firmly on, seeking out only the freshest and tastiest of seasonal fruits, combining them with interesting freshly ground spices and the most flavoursome nuts to create great kulfi,” says Urvesh—in this instance, that means mangoes swollen with juicy ripeness; the milk spiked with aromatic cardamom. “My customers have been telling me how much they love kulfi for years. I thought it was about time I brought it to Borough.”