A cloud of brioche dough filled with pistachio crème patisserie
Comptoir Gourmand doesn’t sell doughnuts. Nor does it sell cronuts, that state-side creation of croissant-like dough, deep fried and filled with pastry cream. “We created something in response to customers asking for doughnuts, but rather than having a heavy fried doughnut we adapted it to include our lighter baked brioche buns,” says Luke at Comptoir. The neat portmanteau almost mimics the differing textures of the cakes: the soft ‘b’ of brionut landing lightly and easily compared to the sureness of the original’s ‘d’. “They are filled with a pistachio crème patisserie and topped with a pistachio crumb.”
The result is a dazzle of parrot-green pistachio shards, scattered across the bronzed surface of brioche dough. Peeking out from the centre like a mole’s head among blades of grass is a blob of crème patisserie, plump, pale, and smooth. It’s not quite the outfit hazard Bread Ahead’s doughnut filling poses, but when you’re eating it over your desk or over your nice tan trench on your way into work, that is not necessarily a bad thing.
Pleasing textural contrast
We enjoyed ours just so: at our desks during a tea break, cooing in admiration at the nutty crumb and the pleasing textural contrast it offered. The brioche was everything you’d expect from a renowned French bakery, from the pillowy middle, to the golden hue of the paper-thin crust, to the way it seemed to just melt like clouds upon impact—leaving nothing but its soft sweetness and the curious tang of pistachios.