Three ways: morels

“THE SEASON IS SHORT, SO I REALLY SAVOUR THE FEW TIMES I GET TO EAT MORELS BEFORE THEY’RE GONE”

Words & images: Millie Tsukagoshi Lagares

Living in Tokyo for half the year, I’m surrounded by mushrooms. They’re among my favourite ingredients and a constant in my kitchen: enoki mushrooms in miso soups with wakame seaweed; maitake mushrooms in stir-fries with pork and oyster sauce; shiitake’s stronger flavour in heartier dishes, like being stuffed with mince in a sweet and savoury sauce. Coming back to Europe in the spring, when lots of different mushroom varieties come into season, is always a treat. In particular, I look forward to cooking with morels.

Morels are earthier and deeper in flavour than the mushrooms I use in Japan. Their firmer structure holds up well to cooking, avoiding the floppy or slimy textures that put some people off. Preparing them takes a bit more care, but it’s well worth the effort. The season is short, so I really savour the few times I get to eat them before they’re gone.

The first time I had morels, they were cooked very simply: fried in butter with some herbs, then spooned over toast. Morels are one of those ingredients that really benefit from this kind of straightforward approach. I’ve given them slight Japanese twists in the dishes below, but with no complicated techniques or hard-to-find ingredients.

I love going to Turnips in Borough Market, as they seem to have morels early in the season. Look for those that are dry and firm, avoiding anything soft or slimy. Because of their honeycomb shape, they can trap dirt, so I slice them in half lengthwise and rinse them briefly under cold water, then dry them with kitchen roll before cooking. It’s also important to note that morels must always be cooked, as they’re poisonous when raw, so use plenty of butter or oil and cook them for at least five minutes. I tend to wrap them in paper towel in the fridge and use them within a couple of days.

1. Rice bowl with sauteed morels and egg

This is the simplest of my three dishes, barely even a recipe, but it’s so satisfying and allows the morels to stand out. Rice bowls are one of my go-tos when I’m back in Tokyo. They’re such a natural format for a quick, balanced meal – a proper lunch in just 10 minutes.

The morels are sauteed until lightly browned and starting to crisp around the edges, then spooned onto steaming rice. I then fry an egg until the edges are crispy but the yolk is still bright and runny. A light dash each of soy sauce and sesame oil is enough to season the dish, but a sprinkling of spring onion or chives over the top is a nice touch if you’re feeling fancy. This dish is surprisingly rich, so doesn’t need much else.

2. Steak with morel and miso cream sauce

Steak and mushrooms are a natural pairing. Outside of morel season, I’d normally use chestnut mushrooms, or even shiitake for a slight Asian twist, but morels add extra depth and texture. The cream softens their intensity and brings everything together into something cohesive but not too heavy. I use sirloin or rump steaks, cooked to a rare or medium rare finish. Let them come to room temperature, then season simply with salt and pepper. Sear in a lightly oiled pan over a medium heat to build a good crust.

While the steak rests, use the same pan to cook the morels in a little butter, then remove and set aside. Add some shallots and garlic to the pan, cook until fragrant, then pour in dash of white wine to deglaze. Stir in some cream, a bit of white miso, chopped parsley and a good crack of black pepper. Simmer gently to thicken the sauce, then add the morels back in and finish with a small squeeze of lemon. Slice the steak and serve on a large platter with the sauce spooned over the top. A simple rocket or fennel salad dressed with lemon and olive oil cuts through the richness. This is an unfussy dish but looks so impressive – rich but balanced, and perfectly doable as a midweek dinner.

3. Morel and butter udon

This dish sits between Europe and Japan. Udon noodles are chewy and substantial – a texture that works particularly well with morels. Butter isn’t traditionally Japanese, but it appears frequently on modern izakaya menus, often paired with ingredients like mentaiko (salted cod roe), so it doesn’t feel out of place.

I cook the morels first so they’re properly tender and lightly caramelised, then set them aside. The udon is boiled separately, drained (reserving a few tablespoons of cooking water), and added to the mushroom pan with butter and a splash of soy sauce. A little cooking water helps create a light, glossy coating rather than a heavy sauce. Top with the mushrooms, then finish with some chopped chives and a squeeze of lemon juice. It’s such a balanced combination: the butter carries the mushroom flavour, the noodles provide substance, and the fresh herbs and lemon keep it from feeling too rich.

Millie Tsukagoshi Lagares is the author of Umai: Recipes From a Japanese Home Kitchen (Quadrille)