Crisp-skinned fish, barbecued lamb, cheese & crackers
Shaun Johnson, Borough’s Head of Development, on the ingredients of a perfect summer
“BECAUSE OF MY HOSPITALITY BACKGROUND, I TEND TO GO INTO HOST MODE AT EVENTS AND BECOME UNPAID FRONT-OF-HOUSE”
Behind the scenes at Borough is a small team of dedicated professionals whose job it is to keep the wheels of this historic market turning. Most of them are completely obsessed with food, thanks in part to their daily exposure to exceptional produce and expert traders. We’ve asked them to share their thoughts on the ingredients and dishes that spark their excitement when summer rolls around.
Shaun Johnson is Borough’s Head of Development, responsible for embedding the trust’s policies and values into the daily experiences of customers and traders.
What item of summer produce do you most look forward to when the season rolls around?
My granddad was a fishmonger so unsurprisingly I’m a big fan of all kinds of fish, but particularly in the summer. Simply cooked white fish – hake or seabass perhaps – with a crispy skin, served with new potatoes and a salad, drizzled with chermoula is my favourite summer dish. I also love crab, which is beautiful in the summer months.
Tell us about the most memorable meal you’ve ever eaten on a summer holiday. Where was it and what was it?
When I was 19, I took a trip to the south of France with my partner at the time. We went for dinner at a pretty fancy place (for us!) in an old, converted monastery where we had chateaubriand. I had been working in an old-school restaurant where we cooked steak Diane at the table, and I remember how nice it felt to be on the other side, enjoying this wonderful French hospitality in a perfect setting.
It’s a perfect barbecue day. Are you the one firing up the barbecue or part of the crowd sitting with a cold drink while someone else sweats over the coals?
Because of my hospitality background, I tend to go into host mode at events and become unpaid front-of-house staff! I like to get ahead and help prep the sides and salads so everything is ready when it comes to grilling. And then I’m always on hand to keep people’s drinks topped up – a very important role, I believe.
What’s your ultimate barbecue dish, either for cooking or eating?
Lamb is my favourite meat and it’s perfect for the barbecue because of its higher fat content. I love cutlets or skewers marinated for hours in lots of herbs and garlic. Sides of choice include a cous cous salad packed with veggies and feta, corn on the cob and some salad leaves simply dressed with good quality olive oil and the white balsamic vinegar from The Olive Oil Co.
If you were planning your perfect picnic, what foods from Borough Market would you add to your basket?
I’m all about the snacks, so cheese and crackers are always a winner. I particularly love the young gorgonzola from either The Parma Ham & Mozzarella Stand or Gastronomica, crackers from Cracker Kitchen (available at Mons Cheesemongers). Gildas are also a perfect picnic food: little skewers with olives from Oliveology, anchovies from The Tinned Fish Market and a pickled jalapeño – the perfect bite. Extras would include some nuts from Food & Forest, a rosemary focaccia from Olivier’s Bakery, and some bresaola from Alpine Deli.
Where in London would you take your Borough Market picnic basket for an afternoon in the sun?
A perfect spot for a picnic and a walk is Banstead Woods. My partner also loves Brockwell Park so we go there a lot; the setting is perfect with its never-ending horizon. It’s gorgeous in the summer.
What’s your summer sundown tipple of choice? In an ideal world, where would you be sitting to enjoy it?
I like a really simple G&T – crisp and refreshing. I like lots of ice and a garnish of lime. Ideally, I’d be in Spain, Cadaqués to be exact. It’s a hidden gem on the Costa Brava with a beautiful harbour, reached by winding roads and not dominated by tourism. My happy place!