Stone fruits, rhubarb gimlets, Hong Kong toasties

“MY PARTNER IS A CHEF, SO I CAN SIT BACK WITH A GLASS OF SOMETHING COLD AND OFFER HELPFUL CRITIQUE”

Behind the scenes at Borough is a small team of dedicated professionals whose job it is to keep the wheels of this historic market turning. Most of them are completely obsessed with food, thanks in part to their daily exposure to exceptional produce and expert traders. We’ve asked them to share their thoughts on the ingredients and dishes that spark their excitement when summer rolls around.  

Lucy Charles is Borough Market’s Director of Operations, the executive team member responsible for overseeing the market’s food offering and customer experience.

What item of summer produce do you most look forward to when the season rolls around?

I’m not sure I can narrow this down to one thing – too many good things come to mind. There’s still not much that beats a perfect strawberry. I love peaches and nectarines too and if you catch a perfect one and mix it with some delicious mozzarella or burrata and some mint it’s a pretty good day. Courgettes too – yes please. Oh, and peas and broad beans. And tomatoes. I’m pretty indecisive, but if it’s meant to be eaten in summer and has been grown with care and attention, I probably look forward to it!

Tell us about the most memorable meal you’ve ever eaten on a summer holiday. Where was it and what was it?

Again, not sure how to narrow this down! Travel and eating are my favourite things. How about a top three? A burn-your-mouth searingly hot wok-fried pork/cabbage sort-of-omelette and loads of peanut butter between slices of thin white charred toast in Hong Kong (in an alleyway on child-sized plastic chairs) immediately springs to mind – I know how this sounds but honestly, it’s right up there. My first gyros (before I knew what a gyros was and thought the token chips were an accident) on a beach in Kos at sunset, 17 years old with no parental supervision and an epic hangover, was epic. Very recently, a few days in Portugal introduced me to the bifana, in its rightful home of Vendas Novas – get there if you can. It’s a simple and outrageously delicious pork sandwich (enjoyed with chips, sweet mustard and a little beer on the side). I’ve no idea how they do it but I’m going back for more very soon. Can I do a fourth actually? Roadside buffalo curd with coconut syrup in Sri Lanka. Pure joy.

It’s a perfect barbecue day. Are you the one firing up the barbecue or part of the crowd sitting with a cold drink while someone else sweats over the coals?

I’d love to say I’m queen of the coals but this isn’t really my comfort zone. Thankfully my partner is a chef so I can sit back with a glass of something cold and wait for the magic to happen! I’ll do a bit of turning here and there and definitely offer helpful critique.

What’s your ultimate barbecue dish, either for cooking or eating?

Simple grilled fish and veggies are my favourite things. Also, strips of ribeye dipped in green salsa and salt – I’m a lot about the condiments. The smoked aioli from Brindisa is great with most things and I always like to stash some wild garlic goodies from Fitz Fine Foods when that’s in season and bring them back out for summer eating. My friend had a barbecue at the weekend and inadvertently made halloumi crisps, due to poor attention span and temperature control – pretty nice! Halloumi in some form is a barbecue essential, I reckon, so grab the best there is from Oliveology.

If you were planning your perfect picnic, what foods from Borough Market would you add to your basket?

Okay… so, chicken pickle from Temptings, Cracker Kitchen seeded crackers and digestives from The Cinnamon Tree Bakery, pretty much any cheese from Mons Cheesemongers, onion mousse from De Calabria (if you can get it – gold dust!), anything from The Tinned Fish Market, throw in some tomatoes, cucumber, radishes and the best melon you can find. Bread. Great butter from Hook & Son. Something pickled / fermented. Bottle of something cold and fizzy. I could go on. Borough Market is the ultimate picnic shopping destination.

Where in London would you take your Borough Market picnic basket for an afternoon in the sun?

Probably Tanner Street Park – it’s close to the market and is always a really nice place to hang out, look at cute dogs and watch people play much better tennis than I can. There’s always a shady spot too, which is very necessary for me! 

What’s your summer sundown tipple of choice? In an ideal world, where would you be sitting to enjoy it?

Probably a rhubarb gimlet. When rhubarb is in season I make as much rhubarb syrup as I can, to make it last as long as I can through non-rhubarby months. When this has run out, I’m pretty open to any other version of a gimlet. Or a margarita – especially frozen on our few sunny days a year. Or fizz. Or really cold white or rosé wine. Really, as long as it’s very cold and not sweet I’m on board. As for location, anywhere overlooking the sea. Failing that, an SE1 pavement seat for excellent people watching!